TOP 5 MISTAKES... To NEVER make!
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- How To Design a Custom Kitchen
- How To Install Kitchen Cabinets
- How To Install Base Cabinets
- How To Install Wall Cabinets
- How To Level Cabinets
- How To Protect Your Granite
- And LOTS More....
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- Design / Layout:
- Work Triangle: If you want to be happy "long term"... Notice the diagram below. Make sure that your kitchen design falls within these guidelines. Adding up the distance of all three destinations should total between 12' to 24'.
- Permits & Contractors:
- Hiring a contractor without checking out his / her references can be disastrous. Go SEE the other jobs personally. Talk to at least one or two former clients.
- At a minimum... pulling a homeowners permit is pretty easy and the big benefit... is that an "official inspector" will come and look over the work during each phase.
- Electrical / Lighting:
- While the cabinets are out... THIS IS THE TIME to install additional plugs, switches and lighting. You should really consider adding some under counter lights! You will use them every single day!!! I also love to put lights inside... and even some rope lighting above the cabinets as well. It is 100X's easier to do this kind of work while the cabinets are gone! Moving and extending wires can be done in a few hours... not days.
- Installation:
- Level, Plumb and Steady: The absolute MOST IMPORTANT issue during installation is to make sure your cabinets are Level, Plumb and Steady! While this "seems" somewhat obvious it is the No. 1 reason for fractured granite, sticking doors, drawers and troubles down the road.
- No matter what... Never use shims in an attempt to level cabinets! Would you put shims under your house? Of course not. Look what happens when houses settle! You should always use a cabinet leveling system to make sure that all four corners of every single cabinet are firmly set on the ground at all times. Most installers don't take the time to do this and you pay the price.
- Pre-Drilling and Screws: Make sure your installer pre-drills every single screw hole. This keeps your wood from splitting and using the "Correct" size bit/screw ensures a stable installation. We use a tan #9 Case Hardened Decking Screw while hanging our cabinets with a #10 DeWalt Countersink drill.
- Studs: For cabinet runs... (more than one cabinet screwed together).. "Try" to make sure that every cabinet is fastened with at least (1) screw on top and on bottom into a stud. Independent cabinets should have (2) screws on top/bottom. If need be... use drywall anchors as a last resort. For a very cool stud finder.
- Do not "store" cabinets in extreme weather: Areas that are too hot or damp can KILL your new cabinets and void the warrantee. Plan Ahead... and store them in the dining room or living room. If you must put them in the garage... make sure the temperature is reasonable.
- Solid Wood vs Particle board:
- Here's the answer. We all know that particle board "explodes" when wet... but did you know that solid wood cabinets can "soak up water" like a sponge! This leads to rotting and even worse... mildew and mold spores!
- A few paragraphs ago... in the "Installation" section... I mentioned that you should use a cabinet leveling system instead of using shims. Here is another BIG REASON why. You really want to install every single base cabinet about an 1/8" off the ground. You won't see it... but it allows your cabinets to "breath". That way... if.. you ever have a small leak (which happens a lot)... the water simply runs underneath your new cabinets! If you have a "deep flood" and they do get wet... they will dry out VERY QUICKLY... stopping mold in it's tracks. IF you use a quality cabinet leveling system... you can install particle board cabinets and sleep soundly knowing that your kitchen is protected from leaks!
Make sure that your kitchen design falls within these guidelines. Adding up the distance of all three destinations should total between 12' to 24'.
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