Product Catalog

This size is for Kitchen Cabinets.

Includes: (1) Front Leveler, (1) Rear Leveler, (1) Short Adjusting Rod, (1) Long Adjusting Rod & Mounting Screws

• Top "Long" Adjusting Rod: adjusts the rear leveler
  - Bottom Adjusting Rod: Adjusts the front leveler
•  

Sized to fit behind 4" Toe-Kick recess:

Includes: (1) Front Leveler, (1) Rear Leveler, (1) Short Adjusting Rod, (1) Long Adjusting Rod, No.2 Square Bit (for adjusting), and Mounting Screws.

Sized to fit behind 4" Toe-Kick recess:

This size is NOT typically for Kitchen Cabinets

Includes: (1) Front Leveler, (1) Rear Leveler, (1) Short Adjusting Rod, (1) Long Adjusting Rod, No.2 Square Bit (for adjusting), and Mounting Screws.

Sized to fit behind 4" Toe-Kick recess:

Includes: (1) Front Leveler, (1) Short Adjusting Rod, No.2 Square Bit (for adjusting), and Mounting Screws.

Single leveler only... Usually used on 12" - 15" cabinets.

When purchasing levelers for any corner cabinet, make sure to add an EZ-Susan in the rear. This allows you to lift the far back corner with ease... and keep it from sagging.

The photo shows (1) EZ-Susan mounted to the bottom of a corner cabinet. The cabinet is upside down so that you can see the leveler.

IMPORTANT NOTE:
The EZ-Susan comes with a 5" extension by default. (for deeper cabinets). It simply extends the adjusting rod... but can be omitted during installation if not needed.

However... If you choose... and If you are sure the extension is unnecessary, you may opt-out by choosing the "EZ-Susan ONLY" option, saving four bucks.

(To bore your access holes in the toe-kick base for your EZ-Levels)

This is the bit we HIGHLY recommend.

This drill bit is 10X's Faster than other bits!
We have them made especially for the EZ-Level system.
Paddle bits are very slow... and they beat up your cabinets!
These bits will bore through your toe-kicks like butter!!!

Do I need this? No... But it's VERY VERY VERY helpful.

Keep in mind, We ship a 3" long #2 bit with every EZ-level order, which works beautifully in any driver. However, I love this handheld driver, for all my Micro-Adjustments.

I use a low voltage drill to raise cabinets (close) to the laser... and then use THIS tool to hit the line perfectly. Doing it this way means you will almost never overshoot the laser line.

If you're a homeowner, on a tight budget, you might not need this, but if you are a pro installer, then you definitely will want one!

Do I need this? No, BUT it's VERY VERY VERY helpful!!!

When it comes to adjusting the EZ-Levels any inexpensive low-voltage handheld driver is by far the best tool for the job!

Regular Drills work, but they have way too much torque, so you have to be careful!

This electric driver allows you to raise cabinets quickly without the extra torque. It also features a great little light, which lights up the toe-kick area nicely.

I use one on just about every job.

Now... you can BUY or RENT our top-of-the-line Green Line Self-Leveling Laser! Simply choose the "Buy or Rent option"

• Buy = $79
• Rent = $79 (If returned, $40 will be credited to your card).

(You will have 60 days to return for credit)

The Huepar 9011G: Mounts onto any standard tripod and features a super bright green Horizontal and Vertical line visible up to 100 ft! They are sharper than red lasers and easier to see.

Another great feature is the ability to LOCK the laser so that you can use it at angles for tiling etc.

This is the ONLY JIG that allows installers to CUT THEIR CROWN RIGHT-SIDE-UP!

Being able to cut crown molding "right-side-up" means cutting crown molding is as easy as cutting baseboard! No more cheat sheets... This is an absolute game-changer for installing crown molding! It's quick, easy, and inexpensive! (My kind of tool)!

Cuts crown molding from 1"- 6" and fits in any miter saw.

2P-10 Bonds crown molding miter joints in about 8 seconds! Pro tip: You never want to "nail" your mitered corners together. Instead, you want to glue those corners. Otherwise, expansion and contraction will cause those corners to separate over time. (Not to mention, trying to brad nail a mitered corner is no fun) This glue will set stronger than the wood itself. Simply glue... hold for 5-10 seconds and you're done!

My crew and I have been using 2P-10 for years and would never consider installing crown without it.

TWO OPTIONS TO CHOOSE FROM:
      - ABS Body - DIY Version - $24.95
      - Full Aluminum Body - Pro Version - $49.95

This jig makes drilling for knobs and handles a breeze!!! Super easy to use and helps to keep you from making costly mistakes!

Stability is key for precise drilling - our cabinet pull jig drill guide delivers just that. This drawer handle jig holds the cabinet firmly so the hole is not deflected. Investing in a reliable cabinet hardware jig tool means getting the most value for your money. This cabinet pull jig, surely will stand the test of time.

The difference? They are the same design, but one is a little stronger material so that it will last longer for everyday use.

We've used every countersink bit available... but this bit is the best! Most importantly it does not burn up while drilling through cabinet styles as the others do. Also, It doesn't slip (like most do)... and the tapered design works wonders!

(This is the bit you will use to screw your cabinet styles together. AND... for hanging your cabinets on the wall. It works perfectly with the Decking screws)

We have been using these screws for years now. I wouldn't even consider using anything else.

1). They're a nice natural maple wood color.
2). The bit doesn't slip.
3). The tapered heads tuck in nicely and look sharp.
4). The wax coating causes them to glide in easily.

Use these with the Countersink Bit

A MUST HAVE for any miter saw! The laser is very very accurate and makes cutting with precision a snap!

Model #: LG-MO1: Fits most 7-1/4, 8, 8-1/4, 10, and 12-Inch Miter, sliding miter, chop, and portable saws, new recessed laser design to protect the laser from hitting the material on deep cuts.

New thinner design to fit more saws. New brighter and more accurate laser line. Includes an extra set of silver oxide batteries. (lasts for years)!

Note: Does not fit 5/8" Radial Arm Saws

NOT FOR LEVELING!.... (LOL)

Every kitchen will require the use of shims: Behind the cabinets... In-between cabinets... etc.

We like these shims because they tend to break much more evenly than the traditional wooden shims. Composite Shims are difficult to find... so we've included them here for you.

(1) Pack should be plenty for the typical kitchen.

Every kitchen has electrical outlets inside the cabinets (under the sink and above the microwave). What makes this difficult is the void between the cabinet and the wall.

In almost every case, there is a 3/4" void due to the fact that "most" cabinets are not flat on the backside. Moving the outlet out 3/4" is VERY difficult.

Therefore, we found this AWESOME inexpensive solution, making quick work of a very tough problem. (Click the dropdown and choose your color and style)

These little time savers are like having 4 extra hands to hold crown molding in place. Enabling one person to install crown molding throughout the house with no extra help.

Note: These are not for "cabinet" crown molding.